Chapter 2: Lukla..(Day 3 Part 1)
Nepal ·Day 3 of the Everest Journey! This is going to be split into 2 parts as there’s lots to cover….seriously
April 13th, 2024
I - Countdown
A (un)wise person once declared, “Let’s get to Lukla already!” It was 6 am, and he was just about rolling out of bed after a solid night’s sleep, packing up while the hosts of the house handed him a black coffee. Aditya, my trusty trekking partner in case you’d forgotten, was equally eager to hit the road. The skies outside looked promising, clear and bright, which meant there was a good chance our flights to Lukla would actually take off today. I could already hear the reassuring roar of the planes departing from the airport just 100 meters away. Oh, finally…
By around 6:50 am, we were ready to leave our cozy stay. Our trekking buddy, let’s call him Mo, who we’d helped with the maps yesterday, joined us in our room, buzzing with excitement. After finishing up our coffee and sharing a few laughs with our hosts, we thanked them for their hospitality and set off, hopeful that today would be the day we’d finally reach Lukla. We were practically shaking with anticipation, eager to be seated on one of the planes.
Arriving at the airport by 7, we were met with the news that our flights had been delayed. But the skies were still looking clear, and we were assured we’d be able to fly. “Phew…” I let out a sigh of relief. As stunning as Ramechhap was, I wasn’t keen on spending another day here, especially since we hadn’t even started our trek yet. I recalled the guide’s words from yesterday: “All we need is about an hour of clear skies, and everyone here will be off.” With the weather looking good and that hour within reach, I was feeling encouraged, comfortable waiting.
After breezing through security, I found myself wandering around the waiting room, impatiently counting down the moments until our turn! Most of the faces I saw were familiar from yesterday, and I couldn’t help but think there was no way this crowd could handle another day of waiting. We were all feeling a bit bummed out from yesterday’s delays. And as for breakfast, I decided to save my appetite for Lukla. “No, today’s the day I’ll finally have a big breakfast in Lukla,” I kept reassuring myself, fully aware of how yesterday’s thoughts had turned out.
Objectively speaking, it’s almost a given that delays are part of the game when it comes to flying into Lukla. There are just too many factors beyond our control, with weather conditions being the biggest culprit. The landing strip at Lukla is notoriously short, right at the edge of a steep cliff face, making the approach a quite difficult even for the most experienced of pilots. The weather can change in the blink of an eye, turning a clear day into a foggy mess. This unpredictability makes scheduling flights a real challenge. The airlines are cautious, and they won’t hesitate to turn back if conditions change during the flight. Safety first, after all! So, it’s crucial to plan for delays. Having buffer days is not just a good idea; it’s an absolute necessity in these parts.
II - Magic!
9:00 am rolled around, and it was finally time for the moment of magic; we were called to board our aircraft bound for Lukla. Miracles do happen! Well, not really; this was pretty much expected given everything I’d mentioned earlier. Sure, the thrill of reaching Lukla was what fueled my anticipation the most, but let’s be honest, a part of that excitement was definitely reserved for flying in this little aircraft. If you’ve ever searched for “World’s Most Dangerous Airport” online, you know Lukla is a frequent contender on those lists. The aircraft we were about to board? They’re known as short-takeoff-and-landing, or STOL for short. I’d never flown in one of these before, so another adventure was about to unfold.
As we lined up to board, I kept an eye on our bags, our “checked-in” luggage being loaded onto the plane. We were instructed to wait on the side of the runway, and while we could see the entire runway from the waiting room, being just a step closer to boarding made this moment feel even more special. Standing in line, I took a quick glance at my fellow passengers. What was I hoping to glean from that? Don’t know but most of us were trekkers, or at least that’s what I assumed. There were only about 12-14 of us, which was perfect since that was all the aircraft could seat.
Once we were called to board, we formed a line and were greeted by the flight attendant, who was crouching slightly due to the aircraft’s low height. Some passengers had to duck their heads just to get through the door.
The flight itself was compact, some might say cramped but hey, it was just a 15-minute journey, so what was there to complain about? I thought it was fine, though I felt a bit sorry for the flight attendant, who had to navigate the narrow aisles in a space where every inch counted. Aditya and I weren’t seated together; we were about a seat apart. I found myself next to another guy who gave off the vibe of a regular on these flights. I couldn’t quite put my finger on why I thought that; it was just a hunch. A lot of these thoughts going around huh.
As we prepared for departure, the flight attendant went over the final safety instructions, and I could feel the excitement building.
Departure and arrival came as quickly as they went. The flight was indeed short, but it was an incredible experience, soaring high above the hills and into the mountains. We were climbing to about 2,300 meters, so much of the flight was spent gaining altitude, though it didn’t feel that way. It was also quite loud, but honestly, my eyes were glued to the breathtaking views outside. I wasn’t seated by the window, but that didn’t stop me from soaking in the scenery. The flight was definitely one of the more turbulent ones I’d experienced, which probably contributed to why people consider this journey so dangerous. After an exhilarating 15-20 minutes, we finally touched down in Lukla, the very place we had been so eagerly awaiting.
III - A Storybook Town (and Journey) Awaits
So, just landed in Lukla, and it felt like I stepped into a storybook. Maybe it’s just the thrill of being here, but there’s something undeniably enchanting about this place. The moment I stepped off the flight, the chill in the air hit me like a wake-up call. We weren’t high enough yet to feel the dreaded altitude sickness, but let’s be real, one minute you’re breezing up a flight of stairs, and the next, you’re feeling lightheaded. Wild I know.
I took a moment to soak it all in. “Surreal…” I thought, as I gazed at the stunning scenery. Was it the altitude playing tricks on me? It had to be! The landscape felt transformed, even though it bore similarities to what we’d seen back in Ramechhap. Maybe I had built up this idyllic image of Lukla in my mind? Regardless, the backdrop behind the airport was nothing short of breathtaking. As we waited for our backpacks to make their way on the carousel (which, by the way, was the smallest one I’d ever seen), I couldn’t help but notice the guides and porters outside, eagerly offerring their services to trekkers and tourists alike. Hiring a porter or guide on the spot can often be cheaper than pre-booking through an adventure company. Just keep in mind that their English skills might be a bit limited, and they may not have all the resources you’d expect.
Once we navigated through the bustling swarm of porters and guides, it was clear we needed to figure out our next steps. I could sense we were both on the same wavelength: let’s dive into town and ask around about kicking off our Everest trek. Lukla may be small, with a population of about 2,500, but for a remote mountain settlement, it had a surprising number of basic amenities and other facilities.
As we strolled into the main area, it unfolded like a long walkway lined with shops on either side. If you’ve ever wandered through a bazaar in India or any South Asian country, you’ll know exactly what I mean. And motorised vehicles? Nahh, The only way to reach this gem is by flying in or trekking from Jiri, a remote town that’s (I think) a solid week away on foot (assuming you’re trekking 4-8 hours each day, of course).
Walking into the heart of Lukla was like stepping into a vibrant marketplace, with shopkeepers shouting to catch the attention of trekkers, eager to sell gear, merchandise, and souvenirs. It was around 10:30 am, and while some might argue it was too early for lunch, we were starving from skipping breakfast. So, brunch it was! We decided to pop into one of the local shops to sample what Lukla had to offer.
As we entered, it felt less like a restaurant and more like a cozy home that had been transformed into a welcoming space for guests. The seating was relaxed, and the atmosphere was warm, which I felt was perfect for the chilly yet sunny conditions outside. Looking around, we noticed that nearly everyone else was a local, and we exchanged smiles and nods, feeling right at home. Asked for what we’d wanted to have, we opted for dal bhat, a staple in these parts, figuring it was probably the best choice to fill our stomachs before hitting the trail. After all, we had no idea how long we’d be out there.
Our host, Lhakpa Sherpa, greeted us with a warm welcome, instantly recognising that we were here for the trek. She asked about our plans, and when we mentioned the three passes, her eyes lit up. “Oh yes, good trek! Tough one” she mentioned. We explained about wanting to push ourselves to the limit, and she wished us luck on our adventure before heading into the kitchen to check on our food.
Meanwhile, Aditya and I took a moment to relax and pull out our map. We needed to plot our journey and figure out how we were going to tackle the trail ahead. I pulled out my baseplate compass, attempting to measure distances on the map while showing Aditya how it worked. Not that I was a pro or anything, but it was a decent way to gauge how much walking lay ahead of us.
Now, most trekkers typically head to Phakding on their first day, and it made sense—decent distance from Lukla, good amenities, and facilities. We were definitely open to the idea of making it all the way to Phakding, but gut instinct was whispering that it might be crowded, and finding accommodation could be a challenge. I wasn’t keen on risking that, but then again, that was part of the adventure, right? A lot of this trip was about making it up as we went along while having a general idea of our goals. So, after mulling it over, we initially decided to head all the way to Phakding.
Lunch took a while to arrive since we were the first ones there for a full meal; most others were opting for momos and/or a lighter fare. Almost an hour passed before our food finally made its appearance, but let me tell you, it was worth the wait. To put it simply, it was a hearty meal, just what we needed to celebrate our arrival in Lukla.
As we dug in, we figured it might be a good idea to ask the locals about the villages along our route and where would be a good spot to bunk for our first night on the trek. Who better to ask than Lhakpa? Lhakpa had some suggestions but also warned us that we might be cutting it close by not having reserved accommodations, especially since it was peak season. Well, tough luck; we hadn’t booked anything for the villages on our route, so it was very much a luck-of-the-draw situation.
However, Lhakpa was quite helpful, mentioning that the village of Toktok could be our best bet. There was a good chance for accommodation there, and it wouldn’t be as crowded as Phakding. The bigger reason we decided to take her advice was that she had a contact in Toktok; one of her relatives and she expressed her gratitude if we could consider her offer. I mean, why not? She had prepared us some absolutely delicious food and was genuinely trying to help us. Plus, we wanted to support the locals in any way we could. The competition can be fierce among the villages, each offering some form of stay and amenities. If we could help share the love equally among them, we were more than happy to do our part.
So, we accepted Lhakpa’s offer to stay at her relative’s lodge, and she gave us the name: Ama Dablam Lodge. Like I said, the names around here often reference the mountains, especially those in the region. Now we knew where to go, and it seemed likely that the lodge would have accommodation available. As long as there was a bed and a blanket, I was good to go, we even had spares for those!
As we finished up and settled the bill, we once again thanked Lhakpa for her help and expressed our gratitude for her suggestions. With that, we set off to the other side of town to get our trekking permits. About time this began huh.
Walking all the way to the permit section, we encountered counters and forms to fill out for our trekking cards and permits. We chatted with the officers as we prepared, answering their basic questions about our trek and supplies. Recognising that we were Indian, we struck up some small talk, and they wished us good luck on our journey ahead.
Joking aside, This was the stuff of dreams; something we had looked forward to for over a year, the beginning of a legendary adventure. Sounds cliché, I know. Aditya and I exchanged glances as we stood at the town’s exit. We didn’t quite know what we felt at that moment or how wild this adventure would turn out to be. All we knew was that we were ready to dive in. Everest Three Passes, I’ve been waiting to meet you for a while now, let’s make some unforgettable memories (and maybe a few questionable decisions) together!